Planting & growing guide:

When you receive the seeds, make sure to store it in a cool, dry and dark location for longer viability and maximum protection. If you are not going to use the seeds straight away or not planting all at once, it’s recommended to store them inside the refrigerator or wine fridge to make sure they will not be affected by outside factors such us humidity, moisture or light.

Choosing your planting side:

Take into consideration soil, light and water requirements when planning your planting location. Most vegetables and herbs prefer 6 hours of sunlight per day. If seeds will be planted outdoors directly into the ground, choose area with fertile, well-draining, light soil and make sure to remove stones, weeds and grass prior sowing the seeds. Enrich the soil with compost or other organic material to provide extra nutrients to the soil. Vegetables and herbs need free draining soil. If the garden stays wet, consider building raised beds up to 15cm above the surrounding soil to improve drainage.

If the seeds are sown indoors, choose location that would provide a plenty of sunlight.

Consideration should be taken for those varieties that are naturally adapted to cooler climates. They should be always planted indoors with a controlled temp of +20-25C.

Starting the seeds:

Seeds can be started planting them directly into the soil or first germinating them using the moist paper towel method. It’s important to know the recommended sowing depth of each variety for maximum success.

For germinating the seeds using the moist paper towel method, just sprinkle some seeds on a moist (not wet) paper towel (paper kitchen towel works well), fold it, put inside the ziplock bag, close and keep inside dark location from a few days up to a week. During this period check regularly to make sure the towel isn’t dried up and moist more if needed. Once the seeds germinate, transfer them into their permanent growing place. Not all the seeds are suitable for this germination method, so prior doing it check, if the particular variety can be germinated this way.

Watering:

One of the most crucial factors to a successful planting. It’s important not to over-water the seeds and plants, as excess water, staying in the deeper layers of soil often causes the seeds/roots of the plants to rot before being fully drained. Usually it’s enough to water once in a few days, when the touch to the soil is getting dry.

Light:

Sunny and bright location should be always a priority when choosing a spot for the plants. Shortage of light is the main cause of the slow and weak growth of the plants. If natural light is not enough, option of using growing lights should be considered for the successful growth.

Soil:

Different types of plants require different soil, however, we always recommend to choose light, fertile, well drained and preferably rich in organic matter soil. Local soils should be avoided, as they are heavy and loamy, and most seeds do not do well in them. Special mixes for vegetables, herbs and flowers could be bought at the gardening shops or nurseries.

Fertilizing:

Providing enough nutrients is crucial for a successful growth and harvest of the plants. Whether its leafy greens, tomatoes, peppers, corns or most herbs, all should be fed regularly for the best results. To choose the right fertilizer for your plants, always consult the seeds seller for the recommendations and guidance.

General information:

Since Singapore is a year round tropical country, no warming up of the soil or providing a green house method is needed. Soil and environment temp is high enough for the seeds to germinate without providing extra heat or humidity.

Planting Tomatoes:

Soil & early germination: Choose a commercially prepared seed stating mix. These mixes usually contain a mixture of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite, and some gardeners even make their own homemade mixtures. Germinate your tomato seeds in the container of your choosing. Tomato seeds will germinate in any container as long as excess water can drain, and they are given enough moisture and warmth. Many nurseries and home gardeners use growing “flats” with different sized plastic cell inserts. Fill your container with moist seed starting mix and plant the seeds ¼” deep. Place germination containers out of direct sunlight in a warm location. Although light is not needed in the germination process, it is not harmful as long as high temperatures are avoided. It only takes 5 to 10 days for tomato seeds to germinate if they are kept in their optimum temperature range of 70 to 80F. Lower temperatures delay germination and higher temperatures accelerate it. Extreme temperatures, below 50F or above 95F are damaging to germination.

Monitor your germination containers regularly. When the first seedlings emerge from the soil, they need to be moved into bright light. Tomato seedlings immediately begin reaching for light. If the light is not adequate, they will grow undesirable 3” long stems right after germination. If this occurs, you can try to transplant to a deeper container, but you might have to start over!

Notice when the plants develop their first set of true leaves. Once these leaves appear, transplant the plants into their own, approximately 4”, container that drains well. This re-potting step is important as it helps the plant develop a strong root system. Do not be afraid to set the plants too deeply – plant them all the way up to their top leaves – tomatoes are able to develop roots all along their stems.

Depending upon the seed starting mix you chose, you might need to provide your tomato seedlings with a supplemental fertilizer. If so, fertilize minimally with a weak, diluted solution.

Evaluate your container size and your growing conditions. If necessary, repot your tomato plants a second or third time to keep them from becoming root-bound. The tomato plants still require good lighting; ensure they receive plenty of sunlight. If that is not possible, fluorescent lights or high-intensity grow lamps in combination with sunlight is the next best choice.

Water regularly, when needed to keep the soil moist but not wet. Keeping the soil soggy will smother and kill the roots and cause stem fungus – especially when it is really hot.

Other tomato problems include Blossom End Rot and Blossom Drop.

Some good companion plants for tomatoes include carrots, leaf lettuce, nasturtiums, parsley, onions, chives, and marigolds. Poor tomato-growing companions are cabbage, fennel, potatoes, and kohlrabi.

Planting Peppers:

When starting seeds, it is recommended to start three to a pot, planting ¼” deep, and thin the weakest seedling, leaving the remaining two to grow as one plant.

Approximately one week before transplanting outdoors, harden off seedlings. Prepare your plot with fertilizer or organic material.

Choose a well-drained site that gets at least 8 hours of sunlight a day. Peppers need very fertile soil, so add lots of compost. Too much nitrogen in the soil leads to lots of leaves and not many peppers. If your soil is lacking in phosphorus, add some rock phosphate or bone meal before planting.

Seedling pairs should be placed about 12 to 18” apart.

Peppers will appreciate a stake or cage for stability, especially when they begin to fruit.

Peppers do not like to be sitting in water, so be careful not to overwater them. It is good to water deeply every 2nd or 3rd day to encourage deep root development.

Nip off the first flower buds that appear on peppers. This will allow plants to mature and direct their energy to strong roots and branch development before fruiting. Pepper plants that have strong roots and branches will bear more fruit and hold it well until it ripens. After the next set of flowers have turned into baby peppers, side dress with a balanced organic fertilizer, such as compost, around the base of the plants. In hot climates, shade peppers by planting them in the shadow of taller crops, such as corn or trellised beans, or in a dense block to help protect the fruit from the bright afternoon sun.

Peppers need a well-drained bed, but consistent moisture is also important

Peppers are sometimes affected by early blight, a leaf-spot disease. You can identify blight by the dark, concentrically ringed spots that form on peppers’ leaves. Cut off infected leaves and apply mulch to prevent spores from splashing up off the soil surface. Spray compost tea or Bacillus subtilis to prevent blight from spreading.

Planting Cucumber:

Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-draining soil. Work in a 2 inch layer of rich compost and water thoroughly, adding a light application of organic fertilizer. Plant your cucumber seeds ½” deep and 6” apart. Once the seedlings have 2 leaves, thin to 12 inches apart. If transplanting seedlings, plant them 12” apart as well.

Water - Provide your cucumber plants with plenty of moisture, especially around the time the plant is flowering and fruiting. Any water stress during this period of rapid growth causes the levels of bitter-tasting compounds to rise. Use 1-2 inches of water per week depending on the weather and the characteristics of your soil. Keeping the soil slightly moist at all times is a good rule of thumb. Like with all your warm weather crops, mulch is your best friend. Reduce water stress on your cucumber plants by mulching around the base.

Fertilize – Cucumbers are heavy feeders. Feed your soil with rich compost or aged manure and side dress with compost when the first flowers appear.

To maximize production, keep close tabs on your vines and harvest regularly. Cucumber vines will focus its energy on sustaining and growing existing cucumbers, so picking often will redirect the energy into new production.

Using a trellis will increase your yield of flawless fruits that are easier to pick. Tomato cages or fences work best.

Bitter Cucumbers – Plants that are stressed are more likely to become bitter, but the degree of bitterness depends on the severity of the stress. Stress in a plant is most often caused by insufficient and uneven moisture, but temperature extremes and poor nutrition can also play a part.

Cucumber Beetles – Construct tents of fine netting or cheesecloth or use floating row covers over young transplants and seedlings. Remove covers before temperatures get too hot in mid-summer, and when flowering to allow pollinators access to blooms.

Crop Rotation – To reduce pest and disease pressure, do not plant cucumbers where you’ve grown them in the last two years.

Planting Lettuce:

Lettuce grows in average soil. Dig about 4” deep, work in some compost and organic matter and plant your lettuce by sprinkling it in and covering with a layer of soil. Rule of thumb is that seeds should be planted to a depth of three times their diameter. For lettuce, that means approximately 1/8” deep. Expect to see sprouts in a week to 10 days.

Because the seeds are so small, the best you can do is sprinkle the seeds onto the soil, and then as the seedlings emerge, you can then begin to thin them out. Lettuce roots are small and shallow, so take care as you pull out the seedlings, or better yet, use a pair of scissors or clippers to cut at soil level. The advantage of cutting the seedlings at soil level diminishes the amount of dirt and grit you’ll have to wash off the young seedlings once you bring them inside to add to that night’s dinner salad.

Keep your lettuce well watered by not soggy. If your planting area gets full sun all day long, you may want to protect this crop with some afternoon shade.

Loose head varieties called butter head Loose head varieties called butter head like Little Gem or White Bostonmature in 40 to 60 days. Romaine varieties with long, narrow leaves and heads include Parris Island mature in 75 or more days.

Harvest your lettuce in the morning when it is the crispest. Loose-leaf varieties can be harvested by trimming outside leaves, moving from outside in. Heading types should be just firm at harvest; you can use a knife to cut heads below the lowest leaves, leaving the roots covered in soil behind.

Planting Arugula:

Arugula grows in average soil. Plant as soon as soil can be worked in spring. Dig about 4” deep, work in some compost and organic matter and plant your arugula seeds by sprinkling them in and covering with a layer of soil. Expect to see sprouts in a week to 10 days.

Because the seeds are so small, do your best to sprinkle the seeds into the soil. As the seedlings emerge, you can then begin to thin them out. Don’t just toss those seedlings that you just thinned out – they’re a great addition to salads and they’re packed with nutrients. 4-6 inches between arugula plants is recommended, but keep in mind that arugula doesn’t mind over-crowding.

Keep your arugula well watered but not soggy. If your planting area gets full sun all day long, you may want to protect this crop with some afternoon shade.

Heat and moisture stress will cause bolting. Providing some afternoon shade and consistent moisture will slow the process.

Harvest your arugula in the morning when it is the crispiest. Use a knife to cut the leaves as you need them. If you cut the entire plant back at soil level, it will come back! So take care not to pull the plant out by the roots when you harvest, but instead cut leaves from the outside in. You may find larger leaves tend to get tough and very bitter, discard these and enjoy the subtle inner leaves. Leaves can also taste bitter in warmer weather. Eat fresh or cook like spinach.

Arugula has a small root structure and is easy to remove from the garden. Good companion plants include bush beans, beets, carrots, celery, cucumber, dill, lettuce, mint, nasturtium, onion, potato, rosemary, spinach, and thyme. Do not plant with strawberries.

Planting Corn:

Plant in full sun in highly fertile, well drained soil with a 6.0 to 6.8 pH. Sweet corn will prefer rich soil with high nitrogen and plenty of moisture. Soil should be amended prior to planting with aged manure or rich compost. The ideal spot to plant corn would be in the same plot that yielded a healthy bean or pea crop the year before--these crops contribute the needed nitrogen to the soil.

Corn is wind pollinated and, especially for smaller plots, should be planted in blocks, rather than long rows. Keep in mind that each silk is connected to each kernel, and need to be pollinated by the tassels growing above. 97% of the silks are pollinated by another corn’s tassels. This should illustrate how important it is to plant your corn in blocks so that the tall tassels can drop the pollen on the silks of the corn growing below.

Seeds should be planted 2-3 per hole, about 1-2 inches deep. Plantings should be approximately 12-15 inches apart, and rows should be 30-36 inches apart. If more than one seed sprouts from a single planting, they should be thinned to the strongest sprout.

Shorter varieties can be planted closer, and sweeter varieties should be planted shallower. Water the plot well after planting and keep consistently moist through germination and harvest. As weather becomes warmer, increase watering. Most varieties of corn will produce suckers at the base of the stalk, but removing them has shown no benefit to the plant’s production, and can actually have a negative impact on yield.

Rule of thumb, the sweeter the corn, the more water it will need, and the warmer the soil temperatures must be.

Corn should be fertilized with a nitrogen rich food when plants are about 12-18 inches high and weeds should be controlled so they do not steal moisture and nutrients from your crop. Sufficient moisture is crucial for plants to develop and produce properly.

Corn will produce a fairly shallow root system, so care should be taken not to damage it when removing weeds. Weed control in corn plots is best achieved by a thick mulching, which also helps to maintain moisture.

Corn requires warm temperatures, rich soil, and even regular waterings. If corn does not emerge, the soil may be cold or damp. Plant later when the soil is warmer and add aged compost and organic matter to the soil to make it more well-draining.

Ears will be ready to harvest approximately 3 weeks after silk is visible and has become brown. Another way to check, pull down the leaves a bit to reveal the tip of the cob. The corn kernels should be firm and milky when cut open. To harvest, bend and pull ear downward from stalk with a twisting motion. Consume or freeze immediately for best quality.

Planting Basil:

Basil prefers a position in your garden in full sun and thrives best in rather poor, gravelly, and well-drained soil. When grown in rich garden beds, they make more luxuriant vegetative growth but lose much of their fragrance and flavour.

Till the area or rake to loosen the soil and amend with either organic compost or well-rotted manure to add good drainage to the soil.

Sow basil seed ¼” deep; thin successful plants to 8 inches apart or more depending on the variety. Space rows 18 to 24 inches apart.

Keep your basil soil moist for quick growth, but do not overwater. It is best to mulch around the base of the plant to aide in moisture retention and to deter weeds.

Basil makes a wonderful bedfellow with tomatoes and peppers to enhance their growth.

Planting Sunflowers:

Sunflowers grow best in full-sun locations – receiving at least 6 to 8 hours of full sun exposure per day. Once you have chosen your location, dig down to a depth of 2 feet and turn the soil over to loosen it. Though sunflowers are not finicky, they do appreciate loose, well-draining soil. If possible, work in a slow-release granular fertilizer about 8 inches deep.

Sunflowers need to be pressed 1 inch deep into the soil. Sunflowers are usually problem-free. Plant early enough so that autumn frosts do not cut your sunflowers’ life cycle short. Too much rainfall before and after germination can cause the seeds to rot or bring on downy mildew. Be sure to seed after the rainy season to avoid this.

Planting Marigolds:

Start with a tray or pot filled with damp potting mix, sprinkle seeds on top and cover with ¼” of soil.

Once the marigold seedlings appear, move your tray or pots to a location where the seedlings will get at least five hours or more of light each day. The light can be from an artificial source. As the seedlings grow, keep your potting soil damp by watering from below. Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into their own pots where they can continue to grow indoors until all danger of frost has passed.

Once marigold flowers are planted, they need very little in the way of care. If they are planted in the ground, you only need to water them if the weather has been very dry for more than two weeks. If they are in containers, water them daily as containers will dry out quickly. Water soluble fertilizer can be given to them once a month, but to be honest, they will do as well without fertilizer as they do with it.

Once established and healthy, marigolds will continue growing easily, even if left unattended. Water to keep the soil moist.

Planting Zinnias:

Turn over the soil in the area you want to plant your zinnias and work in 2 or 3 inches of compost or peat moss to help improve soil fertility and drainage. Plant the seeds only about ¼” – ½” deep and you should see seedlings sprout in four to seven days.

Place your zinnias in an area that will receive plenty of sunlight. Keep your zinnia seeds moistened, checking on them every day or two. Expect to see germination in about 7 to 10 days.

Water the area of your zinnia plants carefully, do not get the stems or leaves wet since zinnias are prone to mildew. Keep your zinnia garden lightly moistened, and let the area dry out between watering.

Though zinnias are almost effortless to grow, they may experience a bought of powdery mildew. Prevention is your best defense against this troublesome fungus. Make sure that your zinnias maintain good air circulation around them (by planting the recommended distance), and water at the roots rather than from above.